Ascorbyl Glucoside VS. Ascorbyl Palmitate: Isesengura rigereranya

II. Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl glucoside nuburyo butajegajega bwa vitamine C idashobora gukama amazi kandi byoroshye kwinjizwa nuruhu. Ni uruvange rwa aside ya ascorbic na glucose, ifasha kuzamura ituze hamwe na bioavailable ya vitamine C. Ascorbyl glucoside izwiho ubushobozi bwo kumurika uruhu, ndetse no kuruhu rwuruhu, no kugabanya isura yibibara byijimye na hyperpigmentation. Ifite kandi anti-inflammatory, ituma ikwiranye nubwoko bwuruhu rworoshye.

A. Imiterere yimiti nibyiza

Ascorbyl glucoside ikomoka kuri vitamine C ikorwa muguhuza aside asikorbike na glucose. Iyi miti yimiti yongerera imbaraga vitamine C itajegajega kandi igahinduka neza, kugirango ikorwe neza. Ascorbyl glucoside irashobora gushonga amazi, ituma ishobora kwinjizwa byoroshye nuruhu, bigatuma vitamine C igabanuka neza muri selile.

B. Guhagarara no kuboneka

Imwe mu nyungu zingenzi za ascorbyl glucoside ni ituze ryayo. Bitandukanye na aside ya asikorbike isukuye, ikunda kwibasirwa no kwangirika iyo ihuye n'umwuka n'umucyo, glucoside ya ascorbyl igaragaza ituze ryinshi, bigatuma ihitamo ibicuruzwa bivura uruhu. Byongeye kandi, kongera bioavailability yemeza ko ishobora kwinjira mu ruhu neza, igatanga ibyiza bya vitamine C mubice byimbitse byuruhu.

C. Inyungu zuruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside itanga inyungu zitandukanye kuruhu. Igikorwa cyibanze cyayo ni ugukora nka antioxydeant, kurinda uruhu kwangirika kwubusa biterwa n’ibibazo by’ibidukikije nk’imishwarara ya UV n’umwanda. Byongeye kandi, igira uruhare runini mukubuza umusaruro wa melanin, bityo igafasha kumurika uruhu, kugabanya hyperpigmentation, ndetse no hanze yuruhu. Byongeye kandi, glucoside ya ascorbyl byagaragaye ko ifite imiti igabanya ubukana, bigatuma ibera gutuza no gutuza uruhu rworoshye cyangwa rurakaye.

D. Bikwiranye nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside yihanganirwa neza nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu, harimo uruhu rworoshye. Kamere yabyo ikabura amazi hamwe nubwitonzi bworoheje bituma bidashoboka gutera uburakari cyangwa ibyiyumvo, bigatuma ihinduka muburyo butandukanye kubantu bafite ibibazo bitandukanye byuruhu.

E. Ubushakashatsi nubushakashatsi Bishyigikira Imikorere Yabyo

Ubushakashatsi bwinshi bwerekanye akamaro ka glucoside ya ascorbyl mukuvura uruhu. Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ko bugabanya neza synthesis ya melanin, biganisha ku mucyo ndetse kurushaho. Byongeye kandi, ubushakashatsi bwerekanye ubushobozi bwabwo bwo kwangiza radicals yubusa no kurinda uruhu guhangayika. Igeragezwa rya Clinical ryerekanye kandi ko gukoresha glucoside ya ascorbyl bishobora kugira uruhare mu kunoza imiterere y’uruhu, gukomera, hamwe n’umucyo muri rusange.

 

III. Ascorbyl Palmitate

A. Imiterere yimiti nibyiza

Ascorbyl palmitate ni ibinure bikomoka kuri vitamine C ikorwa muguhuza aside asikorbike na aside palmitike. Iyi miti yimiti ituma iba lipofilique nyinshi, ikabasha kwinjira mumyanya yuruhu rwa lipide. Nkigisubizo, palmite ya ascorbyl ikoreshwa muburyo bwo kuvura uruhu bisaba kwinjira cyane muruhu no gukora antioxydeant igihe kirekire.

B. Guhagarara no kuboneka

Mugihe palmite ya ascorbyl itanga inyungu zo kongera uruhu rwinjira, ni ngombwa kumenya ko idahagaze neza kurenza izindi nkomoko za vitamine C, cyane cyane mubisobanuro bifite urwego rwinshi rwa pH. Uku kugabanuka gutekanye kurashobora kuganisha kubuzima bwigihe gito no gutesha agaciro mugihe. Nyamara, iyo bikozwe neza, palmite ya ascorbyl irashobora gutanga inyungu zirambye za antioxydeant bitewe nubushobozi bwayo bwo kubikwa mubice byuruhu rwa lipide.

C. Inyungu zuruhu

Ascorbyl palmitate ikora nka antioxydants ikomeye, irinda uruhu imbaraga za okiside no kwangiza ibidukikije. Ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira muri barrière ya lipide yuruhu ituma ikora ingaruka za antioxydeant mubice byimbitse byuruhu, aho ishobora gutesha agaciro radicals yubuntu kandi igashyigikira umusaruro wa kolagen. Ibi bituma bigira akamaro cyane mugukemura ibimenyetso byubusaza, nkumurongo mwiza, iminkanyari, no gutakaza elastique.

D. Bikwiranye nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu

Palmite ya Ascorbyl muri rusange yihanganirwa nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu, ariko imiterere ya lipide-soluble irashobora gutuma irushaho kuba nziza kubantu bafite uruhu rwumye cyangwa rukuze. Ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira muri bariyeri ya lipide yuruhu neza birashobora gutanga hydrated hamwe nuburinzi bwa antioxydeant kubafite ibibazo byuruhu rwihariye.

E. Ubushakashatsi nubushakashatsi Bishyigikira Imikorere Yabyo

Ubushakashatsi kuri palmite ya ascorbyl bwerekanye akamaro kayo mukurinda uruhu kwangirika kwatewe na UV, kugabanya imbaraga za okiside, no guteza imbere synthesis. Ubushakashatsi bwerekanye kandi ubushobozi bwabwo bwo kunoza uruhu no kugabanya isura yiminkanyari. Nyamara, ubushakashatsi buracyakenewe kugirango dusobanukirwe neza inyungu zigereranya nimbogamizi zijyanye nibindi bikomoka kuri vitamine C.

IV. Isesengura rigereranya

A. Ubuzima buhamye hamwe nubuzima bwa Shelf

Iyo ugereranije glucoside ya ascorbyl na palmate ya ascorbyl mubijyanye no gutuza no kubaho neza, biragaragara ko glucoside ya ascorbyl itanga ituze ryiza, cyane cyane mubikorwa bifite urwego rwinshi rwa pH. Iterambere ryongerewe imbaraga bituma riba amahitamo yizewe kubicuruzwa byuruhu bisaba igihe kirekire. Ku rundi ruhande, asikorbyl palmitate, nubwo ifite akamaro mu kwinjira mu nzitizi y’uruhu rwa lipide, irashobora kugira igihe gito cyo kubaho kandi ikaba ishobora kwangirika cyane muburyo bumwe.

B. Kwinjira mu ruhu no kuboneka

Ascorbyl palmitate, kuba ibinure bivamo ibinure, bifite akarusho mubijyanye no kwinjira kwuruhu na bioavailability. Ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira muri bariyeri ya lipide y'uruhu ituma igera ku bice byimbitse byuruhu, aho ishobora kugira ingaruka za antioxydeant no kurwanya gusaza. Ibinyuranye, glucoside ya ascorbyl, kuba ikabura amazi, irashobora kugira aho igarukira mubijyanye no kwinjira muruhu cyane nka palmite ya ascorbyl. Icyakora, ni ngombwa kumenya ko ibikomokaho byombi bishobora gutanga vitamine C neza kuruhu, nubwo hakoreshejwe uburyo butandukanye.

C. Ingaruka mugukemura ibibazo byuruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside na palmate ya ascorbyl byagaragaje imbaraga mugukemura ibibazo bitandukanye byuruhu. Ascorbyl glucoside ifite akamaro kanini mu kumurika uruhu, kugabanya hyperpigmentation, no kurinda antioxydeant. Irakwiriye kandi kubantu bafite uruhu rworoshye bitewe na kamere yoroheje. Ku rundi ruhande, ubushobozi bwa palmate ya ascorbyl bwo kwinjira mu nzitizi y’uruhu rwa lipide bituma ikwiranye no gukemura ibimenyetso byo gusaza, nk'imirongo myiza, iminkanyari, no gutakaza imbaraga. Itanga kandi antioxydeant igihe kirekire murwego rwa lipide yuruhu.

D. Bikwiranye nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu

Kubyerekeranye nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu, glucoside ya ascorbyl muri rusange yihanganirwa nubwoko butandukanye bwuruhu, harimo uruhu rworoshye. Imiterere yacyo yamazi kandi ikora neza ituma ihinduka muburyo butandukanye kubantu bafite ibibazo bitandukanye byuruhu. Ascorbyl palmitate, nubwo muri rusange yihanganira neza, irashobora kuba nziza kubantu bafite uruhu rwumye cyangwa rukuze cyane kubera imiterere ya lipide-soluble hamwe nubushobozi bwo gutanga hydrated hamwe no kurinda antioxydeant.

E. Imikoranire ishobora kuba hamwe nibindi bikoresho byo kuvura uruhu

Byombi bya ascorbyl glucoside na palmite ya ascorbyl bihujwe nibintu bitandukanye byo kuvura uruhu. Nyamara, ni ngombwa gutekereza ku mikoranire ishobora kuba hamwe nibindi bikoresho bikora, kubungabunga ibidukikije, hamwe nibigize. Kurugero, glucoside ya ascorbyl irashobora guhagarara neza muguhindura hamwe na antioxydants zimwe na zimwe, mugihe palmite ya ascorbyl irashobora gusaba ibitekerezo byihariye kugirango birinde okiside no kwangirika.

V. Ibitekerezo

A. Guhuza nibindi bikoresho byo kuvura uruhu

Mugihe utegura ibicuruzwa bivura uruhu hamwe na glucoside ya ascorbyl cyangwa palmite ya ascorbyl, ni ngombwa gusuzuma guhuza kwabo nibindi bikoresho byo kuvura uruhu. Ibikomokaho byombi birashobora guhuzwa neza hamwe nibintu byinshi byuzuzanya, nka antioxydants, moisturizers, hamwe nizuba ryizuba, kugirango byongere imbaraga muri rusange.

B. pH Ibisabwa n'imbogamizi

Ascorbyl glucoside na palmate ya ascorbyl irashobora kugira pH itandukanye nibibazo byo guhitamo. Ascorbyl glucoside irahagaze neza mubisobanuro bifite urwego rwinshi rwa pH, mugihe palmite ya ascorbyl irashobora gusaba imiterere yihariye ya pH kugirango igumane ituze kandi ikore neza. Abashinzwe gutegura bakeneye gusuzuma neza ibyo basabwa mugihe batezimbere ibicuruzwa bivura uruhu kugirango barebe imikorere myiza.

C. Ibishoboka kuri Oxidation no gutesha agaciro

Ibikomokaho byombi birashobora kwibasirwa na okiside no kwangirika iyo bihuye numwuka, urumuri, hamwe nuburyo bumwe bwo gukora. Abashinzwe gushyiraho ingamba bagomba gufata ingamba zo kurinda ibikomoka ku kwangirika, nko gukoresha ibipfunyika bikwiye, kugabanya ingaruka ziterwa n’umwuka n’umucyo, ndetse no gushyiramo ibintu bihoraho kugirango bikomeze gukora neza igihe.

D. Ibitekerezo bifatika kubateza imbere uruhu

Abakora ibicuruzwa bivura uruhu bagomba gutekereza kubintu bifatika nkigiciro, kuboneka, no gutekereza kubitegeko muguhitamo hagati ya glucoside ya ascorbyl na palmate ya ascorbyl kubyo bakora. Byongeye kandi, bagomba guhora bamenyeshejwe ibyagezweho mu buhanga bwo gukora no guhuza ibikoresho kugira ngo bongere imikorere y’ibikomoka kuri vitamine C mu bicuruzwa bivura uruhu.

VI. Umwanzuro

A. Inshamake y'ibyingenzi bitandukanye kandi bisa

Muncamake, glucoside ya ascorbyl na palmite ya ascorbyl itanga ibyiza bitandukanye nibitekerezo byo kuvura uruhu. Ascorbyl glucoside iruta iyindi ituje, ikwiranye nuruhu rworoshye, kandi ikemura ibibazo bijyanye no kumurika no hyperpigmentation. Ku rundi ruhande, Ascorbyl palmitate, itanga uruhu rwinshi rwinjira mu ruhu, ibikorwa bya antioxydeant igihe kirekire, hamwe ningirakamaro mugukemura ibimenyetso byubusaza.

B. Ibyifuzo kubikenerwa bitandukanye byo kuvura uruhu

Ukurikije isesengura rigereranya, ibyifuzo kubikenerwa bitandukanye byo kuvura uruhu birashobora guhuzwa nibibazo byihariye byabantu. Kubashaka gukingira no kwirinda antioxydeant, ibicuruzwa birimo glucoside ya ascorbyl. Abantu bafite impungenge zijyanye no gusaza hamwe ninkunga ya kolagen barashobora kungukirwa nibisobanuro birimo palmite ya ascorbyl.

C. Ubushakashatsi bw'ejo hazaza n'iterambere muri Vitamine C.

Mugihe urwego rwo kuvura uruhu rukomeje kugenda rwiyongera, ubushakashatsi burimo gukorwa niterambere ryibikomoka kuri vitamine C nibyingenzi kugirango tumenye neza imikorere yabyo, ituze, hamwe nibishobora gukorana nibindi bikoresho byita kuruhu. Iterambere ry'ejo hazaza rishobora kuganisha ku iterambere ryibintu bishya bifata imiterere yihariye ya glucoside ya ascorbyl na palmate ya ascorbyl kugirango ikemure ibibazo byinshi byo kwita ku ruhu.

Mu gusoza, isesengura rigereranya rya ascorbyl glucoside na palmitate ya ascorbyl ritanga ubushishozi bwingenzi mumitungo yabo, inyungu, hamwe nibitekerezo. Mugusobanukirwa ibyiza bitandukanye bya buri nkomoko, abatunganya ibicuruzwa byuruhu barashobora gufata ibyemezo byuzuye kugirango bashireho uburyo bunoze kandi bunoze bujuje ibyifuzo bitandukanye byabaguzi.

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Telang PS. Vitamine C muri dermatology. Umuhinde Dermatol Kumurongo J. 2013; 4 (2): 143-146. doi: 10.4103 / 2229-5178.110593
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