Ascorbyl Glucoside VS. Ascorbyl Palmitate: Isesengura ry'igereranya

II. Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl glucoside ni ubwoko buhamye bwa vitamine C ishonga mu mazi kandi inyurwa byoroshye n'uruhu. Ni uruvange rwa aside ascorbic na glucose, bifasha kunoza uburyo vitamine C igumana ubuzima bwiza kandi iboneka neza. Ascorbyl glucoside izwiho ubushobozi bwo gukangura uruhu, kugabanya uruhu, no kugabanya isura y'ibizinga byijimye n'ibara ry'uruhu. Ifite kandi ubushobozi bwo kurwanya ububyimbirwe, bigatuma ikwiriye uruhu rworoshye.

A. Imiterere n'Imiterere y'Ibinyabutabire

Ascorbyl glucoside ni ikintu gikomoka kuri vitamine C ikorwa binyuze mu guhuza aside ascorbic na glucose. Iyi miterere y'ibinyabutabire yongera ubushobozi bwo gushonga no gushonga kwa vitamine C, bigatuma irushaho kuba nziza mu bijyanye no kwita ku ruhu. Ascorbyl glucoside ishongera mu mazi, bigatuma uruhu rushobora kuyinjiza mu buryo bworoshye, bigatuma Vitamine C igera ku tunyangingo twibandwaho neza.

B. Ituze n'ubushobozi bwo kubona ibintu mu mubiri

Kimwe mu byiza by'ingenzi bya ascorbyl glucoside ni uko ihora ihagaze neza. Bitandukanye na aside ascorbic, ikunze kwangirika no kwangirika iyo ihuye n'umwuka n'urumuri, ascorbyl glucoside igaragaza ko ihora ihagaze neza, bigatuma iba amahitamo meza ku bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu. Byongeye kandi, kuba iboneka neza bituma ishobora kwinjira mu ruhu neza, igatanga ibyiza bya vitamine C mu bice byimbitse by'uruhu.

C. Ibyiza ku Ruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside itanga inyungu zitandukanye ku ruhu. Inshingano yayo y'ibanze ni ugukora nk'umusemburo urwanya icyorezo, ukarinda uruhu kwangirika kwangiza ibintu bihumanya ikirere nk'imirasire ya UV n'umwanda. Byongeye kandi, igira uruhare runini mu kubuza ikorwa rya melanin, bityo igafasha uruhu kumurikira, ikagabanya ibara ry'uruhu, ndetse ikanagabanya uruhu. Byongeye kandi, byagaragaye ko ascorbyl glucoside ifite ubushobozi bwo kurwanya ububyimbirwe, bigatuma ikoreshwa mu gutuza no kuruhura uruhu rworoshye cyangwa rwarakaye.

D. Kubereye ubwoko butandukanye bw'uruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside yihanganirwa neza n'ubwoko butandukanye bw'uruhu, harimo n'uruhu rworoshye. Imiterere yayo ishongera mu mazi kandi ikaba yoroshye kuyikoresha bituma idatera uburibwe cyangwa uruhu rworoshye, bigatuma iba amahitamo meza ku bantu bafite ibibazo bitandukanye by'uruhu.

E. Inyigo n'Ubushakashatsi bishyigikira imikorere yabyo

Ubushakashatsi bwinshi bwagaragaje akamaro ka ascorbyl glucoside mu kwita ku ruhu. Ubushakashatsi bwagaragaje ko igabanya neza imikorere ya melanin, bigatuma ibara ry’uruhu rirushaho kuba ryiza kandi riboneye. Byongeye kandi, ubushakashatsi bwagaragaje ubushobozi bwayo bwo kugabanya ibintu bitera uruhu ku ruhu no kurinda uruhu ku mvune zikomoka kuri oxidative. Igeragezwa rya muganga ryagaragaje kandi ko ikoreshwa rya ascorbyl glucoside rishobora kugira uruhare mu kunoza imiterere y’uruhu, gukomera kwarwo, no kurumurikira muri rusange.

 

III. Ascorbyl Palmitate

A. Imiterere n'Imiterere y'Ibinyabutabire

Ascorbyl palmitate ni ubwoko bwa vitamine C bushongesha amavuta bukorwa binyuze mu guhuza aside ascorbic na aside palmitic. Iyi miterere y'imiti ituma irushaho kuba ikora neza, bigatuma yinjira neza mu ruhu. Kubera iyo mpamvu, ascorbyl palmitate ikunze gukoreshwa mu miti ivura uruhu isaba kwinjira cyane mu ruhu no kumara igihe kinini ikora antioxidant.

B. Ituze n'ubushobozi bwo kubona ibintu mu mubiri

Nubwo ascorbyl palmitate itanga inyungu yo kwinjira neza mu ruhu, ni ngombwa kumenya ko idahindagurika cyane ugereranyije n'izindi mvange za vitamine C, cyane cyane mu mvange zifite pH iri hejuru. Uku kugabanuka kw'ihindagurika bishobora gutuma idakomeza kubaho neza ndetse bigashobora kwangirika uko igihe kigenda gihita. Ariko, iyo ikozwe neza, ascorbyl palmitate ishobora gutanga inyungu zirambye zo kurwanya antioxidant bitewe n'ubushobozi bwayo bwo kubika mu ruhu rw'ibinure.

C. Ibyiza ku Ruhu

Ascorbyl palmitate ikora nk'umuti ukomeye urwanya ogisijeni, urinda uruhu ingaruka za ogisijeni no kwangirika kw'ibidukikije. Ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira mu ruhu mu birindiro bya lipide buyifasha gushyira mu bikorwa ingaruka zayo za ogisijeni mu bice byimbitse by'uruhu, aho ishobora kugabanya uturemangingo tw'ubuntu no gushyigikira ikorwa rya collagen. Ibi bituma igira akamaro cyane mu guhangana n'ibimenyetso byo gusaza, nko kumera nk'imirongo mito, iminkanyari, no gutakaza ubushobozi bwo kwiyubaka.

D. Kubereye ubwoko butandukanye bw'uruhu

Ascorbyl palmitate muri rusange yihanganirwa neza n'ubwoko butandukanye bw'uruhu, ariko imiterere yayo yo gushonga mu maraso ishobora gutuma irushaho kuba nziza ku bantu bafite uruhu rwumye cyangwa rukuze. Ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira mu ruhu neza bushobora gutanga ubushyuhe bwinshi no kurinda antioxydants ku bafite ibibazo byihariye by'uruhu.

E. Inyigo n'Ubushakashatsi bishyigikira imikorere yabyo

Ubushakashatsi kuri ascorbyl palmitate bwagaragaje ko ifite akamaro mu kurinda uruhu kwangirika bitewe n’imirasire y’izuba, kugabanya stress ya oxidative, no guteza imbere imikorere ya collagen. Ubushakashatsi bwagaragaje kandi ko bushobora kunoza imiterere y’uruhu no kugabanya iminkanyari. Ariko, hakenewe ubundi bushakashatsi kugira ngo dusobanukirwe neza ibyiza byayo bigereranywa n’ibindi bikomoka kuri vitamine C.

IV. Isesengura ry'igereranya

A. Ituze n'igihe cyo kuruhuka

Iyo ugereranije ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate mu bijyanye no kugumana ubuziranenge no kumara igihe kirekire, biragaragara ko ascorbyl glucoside itanga ubuziranenge buhanitse, cyane cyane mu miti ifite pH iri hejuru. Uku kugumana ubuziranenge gutuma iba amahitamo yizewe ku bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu bisaba igihe kirekire cyo kumara igihe kirekire. Ku rundi ruhande, ascorbyl palmitate, nubwo igira akamaro mu kwinjira mu ruhu mu muyoboro w'amavuta, ishobora kumara igihe gito kandi ikaba ishobora kwangirika mu miti imwe n'imwe.

B. Kwinjira k'uruhu no kuba ruboneka mu mubiri

Ascorbyl palmitate, ikaba ari ikintu gishongesha amavuta, ifite akarusho mu bijyanye no kwinjira mu ruhu no kuba ruboneka neza. Ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira mu ruhu mu birindiro by'amavuta bituma igera mu bice byimbitse by'uruhu, aho ishobora kugira ingaruka zayo zo kurwanya antioxidant no kurwanya gusaza. Ibinyuranye n'ibyo, ascorbyl glucoside, kuko ishongesha mu mazi, ishobora kugira imbogamizi mu bijyanye no kwinjira mu ruhu cyane nka ascorbyl palmitate. Ariko, ni ngombwa kumenya ko ibikomoka kuri iyo miti byombi bishobora kugeza Vitamine C ku ruhu neza, nubwo binyuze mu buryo butandukanye.

C. Ingufu mu Gukemura Ibibazo by'Uruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate byombi byagaragaje ko bigira ingaruka nziza mu gukemura ibibazo bitandukanye by'uruhu. Ascorbyl glucoside ifite akamaro kanini mu gutuma uruhu rurushaho kumera neza, ikagabanya ibara ry'uruhu, kandi igatanga uburinzi ku ruhu rurwanya icyorezo. Irakwiriye kandi abantu bafite uruhu rworoshye bitewe n'imiterere yarwo yoroshye. Ku rundi ruhande, ubushobozi bwa ascorbyl palmitate bwo kwinjira mu ruhu mu birindiro by'amavuta bituma ikoreshwa neza mu guhangana n'ibimenyetso byo gusaza, nko ku mitsi mito, iminkanyari, no gutakaza ubushobozi bwo kwiyoroshya. Inatanga kandi imikorere irambye ya antioxidant mu bice by'uruhu by'amavuta.

D. Kubereye ubwoko butandukanye bw'uruhu

Mu bijyanye no kuba ikwiriye uruhu rw'ubwoko butandukanye, ascorbyl glucoside muri rusange yihanganirwa neza n'ubwoko butandukanye bw'uruhu, harimo n'uruhu rworoshye. Imiterere yayo ishongera mu mazi hamwe n'uburyo bworoshye bwo kuyitunganya bituma iba amahitamo meza ku bantu bafite ibibazo bitandukanye by'uruhu. Nubwo Ascorbyl palmitate, muri rusange yihanganirwa neza, ishobora kuba nziza ku bantu bafite uruhu rwumye cyangwa rukuze bitewe n'imiterere yayo ishongera mu maraso ndetse ikaba ishobora no gutanga uburinzi bw'amazi n'ubudahangarwa bw'umubiri.

E. Uburyo bushoboka bwo gukorana n'ibindi bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu

Ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate byombi bihuye n'ibintu bitandukanye byo kwita ku ruhu. Ariko, ni ngombwa gusuzuma uburyo bishobora kugerwaho n'ibindi bintu bikora, imiti irinda ubushyuhe, n'ibice bigize iyo miti. Urugero, ascorbyl glucoside ishobora kuba ihamye mu miti irimo antioxydants zimwe na zimwe, mu gihe ascorbyl palmitate ishobora gusaba ko habaho ibintu byihariye kugira ngo hirindwe ko oxidation no kwangirika.

V. Ibitekerezo ku bijyanye n'itegurwa ry'ibiganiro

A. Guhuza n'ibindi bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu

Mu gihe utegura ibikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu ukoresheje ascorbyl glucoside cyangwa ascorbyl palmitate, ni ngombwa gusuzuma ko bihuye n'ibindi bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu. Ibikomoka kuri ibyo byombi bishobora guhuzwa neza n'ibindi bintu byuzuzanya, nka antioxydants, moisturizers, n'imiti irinda izuba, kugira ngo byongere imikorere yabyo muri rusange kandi bihamye.

B. Ibisabwa kuri pH n'imbogamizi mu mikorere yayo

Ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate bishobora kugira ibibazo bitandukanye ku birebana na pH n'uburyo bwo kuyitunganya. Ascorbyl glucoside irahamye cyane mu buryo bwo kuyitunganya ifite pH iri hejuru, mu gihe ascorbyl palmitate ishobora gusaba pH yihariye kugira ngo ikomeze kuba nziza kandi igire akamaro. Abakora iyo miti bagomba gusuzuma neza ibi bisabwa mu gihe bakora ibikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu kugira ngo barebe ko bikora neza.

C. Ishobora gutuma habaho ogisijeni no kwangirika

Ibikomoka kuri iyo miti byombi bishobora kwangirika no kwangirika iyo bihuye n'umwuka, urumuri, ndetse n'imiterere imwe n'imwe. Abakora iyo miti bagomba gufata ingamba zo kurinda ibikomoka kuri iyo miti kwangirika, nko gukoresha uburyo bukwiye bwo gupfunyika, kugabanya kwangirika k'umwuka n'urumuri, no gushyiramo ibintu bihamye kugira ngo bikomeze kugira akamaro mu gihe runaka.

D. Ibitekerezo bifatika ku bakora ibikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu

Abakora ibikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu bagomba kuzirikana ibintu bifatika nko ku giciro, uburyo biboneka, n'amabwiriza agenga iyo miti iyo bahisemo ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate. Byongeye kandi, bagomba kumenya iterambere rigezweho mu ikoranabuhanga ryo gukora imiti ndetse n'uburyo ibikomoka kuri iyo miti bihuzwa kugira ngo birusheho kunoza imikorere y'ibikomoka kuri vitamine C mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu.

VI. Umwanzuro

A. Incamake y'Itandukaniro ry'ingenzi n'ibisa

Muri make, ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate bitanga ibyiza n'ibitekerezo bitandukanye ku miti yo kwita ku ruhu. Ascorbyl glucoside ni nziza mu gutuza, ikwiriye uruhu rworoshye, kandi ikemura ibibazo bijyanye no kugira urumuri n'impinduka nyinshi mu ruhu. Ku rundi ruhande, Ascorbyl palmitate itanga uburyo bwo kwinjira mu ruhu, ikora neza mu gihe kirekire, kandi ikagira akamaro mu kuvura ibimenyetso by'ubusaza.

B. Inama ku byifuzo bitandukanye by'ubuvuzi bw'uruhu

Hashingiwe ku isesengura ryakozwe, inama ku byifuzo bitandukanye byo kwita ku ruhu zishobora guhindurwa hakurikijwe ibibazo byihariye by'abantu. Ku bashaka uburinzi bw'ubushyuhe n'ubudahangarwa bw'umubiri, imiti irimo ascorbyl glucoside ishobora kuba myiza. Abantu bafite impungenge zijyanye no gusaza no gushyigikira kolajeni bashobora kungukirwa n'imiti irimo ascorbyl palmitate.

C. Ubushakashatsi n'iterambere ry'ejo hazaza mu bikomoka kuri Vitamine C

Uko urwego rw’ubuvuzi bw’uruhu rukomeza gutera imbere, ubushakashatsi n’iterambere bikomeje mu bikomoka kuri vitamine C ni ingenzi kugira ngo hamenyekane uburyo bushya bwo gukora neza, kugumaho neza, no guhuza neza n’ibindi bikoresho by’ubuvuzi bw’uruhu. Iterambere ry’ejo hazaza rishobora gutuma habaho iterambere ry’imiti mishya ikoresha imiterere yihariye ya ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate kugira ngo hakemurwe ibibazo bitandukanye byo kwita ku ruhu.

Mu gusoza, isesengura rigereranya ascorbyl glucoside na ascorbyl palmitate ritanga ubumenyi bw'ingirakamaro ku miterere yabyo, ibyiza byabyo, n'ibyo bipimo byabyo. Mu gusobanukirwa ibyiza bitandukanye bya buri kimwe mu bikomokaho, abakora ibikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu bashobora gufata ibyemezo bisobanutse neza kugira ngo bakore imiti ifatika kandi ijyanye n'ibyo abaguzi bakeneye.

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Telang PS. Vitamine C muri dermatology. Umuhinde Dermatol Kumurongo J. 2013; 4 (2): 143-146. doi: 10.4103 / 2229-5178.110593
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