Amakuru - Ese Licorice ikuramo Glabridin koko ikora?

I. Intangiriro

Inganda zita ku ruhu zashimye ubuhanga bwera bwa "Glabridin".

Uko ibihe bigenda bihinduka kandi imihanda ikarimbishwa n '“amaguru yambaye ubusa n'amaboko yambaye ubusa,” ingingo yo kuganira hagati y'abakunda ubwiza, usibye kurinda izuba, byanze bikunze ihinduka umweru w'uruhu.

Mu rwego rwo kwita ku ruhu, ibintu byinshi byera byera, harimo vitamine C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, aside kojic, aside tranexamic, glutathione, aside ferulike, phenethylresorcinol (377), n'ibindi. Ariko, ibigize "glabridin" byashimishije abafana benshi, bituma ubushakashatsi bwimbitse bugaragaza ko bugenda bwamamara. Reka ducukumbure birambuye!

Binyuze muri iyi ngingo, tugamije gukemura ingingo z'ingenzi zikurikira:
(1) Inkomoko ya Glabridin ni iyihe? Bifitanye isano bite na "Glycyrrhiza glabra extrait"?
(2) Kuki "Glabridin" yubahwa nka "zahabu yera"?
(3) Ni izihe nyungu za "Glabridin"?
(4) Nigute Glabridin agera ku ngaruka zayo zo kwera?
(5) Ese koko ibinyomoro birakomeye nkuko byavuzwe?
(6) Nibihe bicuruzwa byita kuruhu birimoGlabridin?

No.1 Kugaragaza Inkomoko ya "Glabridin"

Glabridin, umwe mu bagize umuryango wa licorice flavonoid, akomoka ku gihingwa “Glycyrrhiza glabra.” Mu gihugu cyanjye, hari ubwoko umunani bwingenzi bwibinyamisogwe, hamwe nubwoko butatu bwashyizwe muri "Pharmacopoeia," aribyo Ural licorice, ibibyimba bya glisa, na glabra. Glycyrrhizin iboneka gusa muri Glycyrrhiza glabra, ikora nk'ibanze bigize isoflavone y'igihingwa.

Imiterere yuburyo bwa glycyrrhizin
Ku ikubitiro yavumbuwe na sosiyete y'Abayapani MARUZEN ikanakurwa muri Glycyrrhiza glabra, glycyrrhizin ikoreshwa cyane nk'inyongera mu kwera ibicuruzwa byita ku ruhu mu Buyapani, Koreya, ndetse n'ibirango mpuzamahanga byita ku ruhu. Icyakora, ni ngombwa kumenya ko ibigize urutonde rwibicuruzwa bivura uruhu dukoresha bidashobora kuba "glycyrrhizin" ahubwo ko ari "Glycyrrhiza." Mugihe "Glycyrrhizin" ari ikintu cyihariye, "Glycyrrhiza extrait" irashobora kuba ikubiyemo ibindi bice bitarigeze byigunga kandi ngo bisukure, birashoboka ko ari amayeri yo kwamamaza kugirango ushimangire ibiranga ibicuruzwa "karemano".

No.2 Kuki ibinyomoro byitwa "Zahabu Yera"?

Glycyrrhizin ni ibintu bidasanzwe kandi bigoye gukuramo. Glycyrrhiza glabra ntabwo iboneka byoroshye kubwinshi. Ufatanije nuburyo bugoye bwo kuvoma, munsi ya garama 100 urashobora kuboneka kuri toni 1 yibiti bishya byamababi. Ubu buke butwara agaciro kayo, bukaba kimwe mubikoresho bihenze cyane mubicuruzwa bivura uruhu, ugereranije na zahabu. Igiciro cyibikoresho 90% byibanze byibi bikoresho bizamuka bigera kuri 200.000 Yuan / kg.
Natangaye, nuko nsura urubuga rwa Aladdin kugirango ndebe amakuru arambuye. Isesengura risesuye (ubuziranenge ≥99%) itangwa ku giciro cyo kwamamaza kingana na 780 / 20mg, bihwanye na 39.000 yu / g.
Mu kanya, nabonye icyubahiro gishya kuri kiriya kintu kidasuzuguritse. Ingaruka yacyo ntagereranywa yo kwera yayihesheje uburenganzira bwa "zahabu yera" cyangwa "Zahabu yera".

No.3 Ni ubuhe butumwa bwa Glabridin?

Glabridin ifite imiterere myinshi yibinyabuzima. Ikora nkibintu byiza, bifite umutekano, nibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije kugirango byerwe kandi bikureho. Byongeye kandi, ifite antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-gusaza, na anti-ultraviolet. Ingaruka zidasanzwe mu gukuraho umweru, kumurika, no kuvanaho frackle bishyigikirwa namakuru yubushakashatsi, agaragaza ko ingaruka zo kwera za Glabridin zirenze izo vitamine C inshuro zirenga 230, hydroquinone inshuro 16, hamwe n’umukozi uzwi cyane wo kwera arbutin na 1164 itangaje. ibihe.

No.4 Nubuhe buryo bwo kwera bwa glabridin?

Iyo uruhu rwibasiwe nimirasire ya ultraviolet, bigatuma habaho radicals yubusa, melanocytes ishishikarizwa kubyara tirozine. Bitewe niyi misemburo, tirozine mu ruhu itanga melanine, bigatuma uruhu rwijimye kuko melanin itwarwa kuva murwego rwibanze ikagera kuri corneum.
Ihame ryibanze ryibintu byose byera ni ukugira uruhare mugikorwa cya melanin cyangwa ubwikorezi. Uburyo bwa cyera bwa Glabridin bukubiyemo ahanini ibintu bitatu bikurikira:
(1) Kubuza ibikorwa bya tyrosinase
Glabridin yerekana ingaruka zikomeye zo guhagarika ibikorwa bya tyrosinase, bitanga ibisubizo bisobanutse kandi byingenzi. Kwigana mudasobwa bigaragaza ko glabridin ishobora guhuza neza na centre ikora ya tyrosinase ikoresheje imigozi ya hydrogène, bikabuza cyane kwinjiza ibikoresho fatizo byo gukora melanin (tyrosine), bityo bikabuza umusaruro wa melanin. Ubu buryo, buzwi nko kubuza guhatana, burasa nikimenyetso cyerekana urukundo rutinyutse.

(2) Kurwanya ibisekuruza byubwoko bwa ogisijeni ikora (antioxydeant)
Guhura nimirasire ya ultraviolet itera kubyara ubwoko bwa ogisijeni ikora (radicals yubusa), ishobora kwangiza uruhu rwa fosifolipide yuruhu, bikaviramo erythma na pigmentation. Niyo mpamvu, ubwoko bwa ogisijeni ikora bizwiho kugira uruhare mu kuruhu rw’uruhu, bishimangira akamaro ko kurinda izuba mu kwita ku ruhu. Ubushakashatsi bwakozwe bwerekanye ko glabridin igaragaza ubushobozi busa nubusa bwa radical scavenging to superoxide dismutase (SOD), ikora nka antioxydeant. Ibi bifasha kugabanya ibintu bigira uruhare mukwongera ibikorwa bya tyrosinase.

(3) Kubuza gucana
Nyuma yo kwangirika kwuruhu ruturuka kumirasire ya ultraviolet, isura ya erythema na pigmentation iherekejwe no gutwika, bikarushaho kongera umusaruro wa melanin no gukomeza inzitizi mbi. Indwara ya Glabridin irwanya inflammatory itera ahantu heza ho kubuza melanine kurwego runaka, mugihe kandi iteza imbere gusana uruhu rwangiritse.

No. 5 Ese koko Glabridin afite imbaraga?

Glabridin yashimiwe ko ari ikintu cyiza kandi cyangiza ibidukikije mu kwera no kuvanaho ibara, birata uburyo bwera bwasobanuwe neza kandi bukora neza. Ubushakashatsi bwakozwe bwerekana ko ingaruka zayo zo kwera zirenze iz '“igihangange cyera” arbutine inshuro zirenga igihumbi (nkuko byavuzwe mu makuru y’ubushakashatsi).
Abashakashatsi bakoze icyitegererezo cy’inyamaswa bakoresheje zebrafish kugirango basuzume ingaruka mbi ya glabridine kuri melanin, bagaragaza igereranya rikomeye na acide kojic na Bearberry.
Usibye ubushakashatsi bw’inyamaswa, ibisubizo by’amavuriro binagaragaza ingaruka zidasanzwe zo kwera za glabridin, hamwe n’ibisubizo bigaragara byagaragaye mu byumweru 4-8.
Mugihe imikorere yibi bintu byera igaragara, imikoreshereze yayo ntabwo ikwirakwira nkibindi bikoresho byera. Njye mbona, impamvu yibanze iri muri "status ya zahabu" mu nganda - bihenze! Nubwo bimeze bityo ariko, nyuma yo gukoresha ibicuruzwa bisanzwe byita ku ruhu, hari kwiyongera kubantu bashaka ibicuruzwa birimo iyi "zahabu".

No.6 Nibihe bicuruzwa byita ku ruhu birimo Glabridin?

Inshingano: Ibikurikira nurutonde, ntabwo ari ibyifuzo!
Glabridin nikintu gikomeye cyo kuvura uruhu kizwiho kumera neza. Irashobora kuboneka mubicuruzwa bitandukanye byita kuruhu, harimo serumu, essence, amavuta yo kwisiga, hamwe na masike. Ibicuruzwa bimwe byihariye bishobora kuba birimo Glabridin, ariko, ni ngombwa kumenya ko kuba Glabridin mubicuruzwa byita ku ruhu bishobora gutandukana, kandi ni byiza ko usubiramo witonze urutonde rwibigize ibicuruzwa runaka kugirango umenye ko rurimo.
(1) Aleble Licorice Umwamikazi Umubiri
Urutonde rwibigize rugaragaza cyane "Glycyrrhiza glabra" nkibigize kabiri (amazi akurikira), hamwe na glycerine, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, nibindi bikoresho bitanga amazi.
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Ibyingenzi byingenzi birimo Glycyrrhiza glabra ikuramo, ibimera bya hydrolyzed algae, arbutin, ibiti bivamo imizi ya Polygonum cuspidatum, ibiti byumuzi wa Scutellaria baicalensis, nibindi byinshi.
(3) Kokoskin Urubura Isaha Yumubiri Serumu
Kugaragaza 5% nicotinamide, 377, na glabridin nkibigize byingenzi.
(4) Mask yo mu maso (Ibicuruzwa bitandukanye)
Iki cyiciro cyibicuruzwa kiratandukanye, hamwe na bimwe birimo umubare muto kandi bigurishwa nkibimera “glabragan.”
(5) Urutonde rwa Guyu

No.7 Kubabaza Ubugingo

(1) Ese Glabridin mubicuruzwa byuruhu byakuwe mubyukuri?
Ikibazo cyo kumenya niba Glabridin mubicuruzwa byita ku ruhu yakuwe mubisambo byemewe. Imiterere yimiti ikuramo ibinyomoro, cyane cyane glabridin, iratandukanye, kandi inzira yo kuyikuramo irashobora kubahenze. Ibi bitera kwibaza niba hashobora kuba byiza cyane gufata synthesis ya chimique nkubundi buryo bwo kubona glabridin. Mugihe ibice bimwe, nka artemisinin, bishobora kuboneka binyuze muri synthesis yose, birashoboka ko bishoboka gusanisha glabridin nayo. Nyamara, ingaruka zigiciro cya synthesis ya chimique ugereranije no kuyikuramo igomba kwitabwaho. Byongeye kandi, hashobora kubaho impungenge zijyanye no gukoresha nkana ikirango cya "Glycyrrhiza glabra extrait" murutonde rwibikoresho byita ku ruhu kugira ngo habeho ibintu bisanzwe byamamaza. Ni ngombwa gucukumbura inkomoko nuburyo bwo gukora ibikoresho byo kuvura uruhu kugirango habeho gukorera mu mucyo nukuri.

(2) Nshobora gukoresha ibinyomoro byera cyane mumaso yanjye kugirango ibara ryera ryera?
Igisubizo ni oya! Mugihe ingaruka zera za glabridin zirashimwa, imitungo yayo igabanya imikoreshereze yayo itaziguye. Glycyrrhizin ntishobora gushonga mu mazi, kandi ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira muri bariyeri y'uruhu ni ntege. Kwinjiza mubicuruzwa byuruhu bisaba umusaruro ushimishije hamwe nuburyo bwo gutegura. Hatabayeho gutegurwa neza, ntibyoroshye kugera ku ngaruka wifuza. Nyamara, ubushakashatsi bwa siyanse bwatumye habaho iterambere ryimyiteguro yuburyo bwa liposomes, byongera kwinjiza no gukoresha glabridine binyuze muruhu.

Reba:
[1] Pigmentation: dyschromia [M]. Thierry Passeron na Jean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen n'abandi. / Spectrochimica Acta Igice A: Molecular na Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117