Amakuru - Ese koko Licorice Extract Glabridin irakora?

I. Intangiriro

Inganda zishinzwe kwita ku ruhu zashimiye ubuhanga bwa "Glabridin" (yakuwe muri Glycyrrhiza glabra) ubwo irusha arbutin iyoboye umweru inshuro 1164, ihabwa izina rya "izahabu itunganya umweru"! Ariko se koko ni igitangaza nkuko byumvikana? Ni gute igera ku musaruro udasanzwe nk'uwo?

Uko ibihe by'umwaka bihinduka n'imihanda igahinduka imitako y' “amaguru yambaye ubusa n'amaboko yambaye ubusa,” ingingo y'ibiganiro mu bakunzi b'ubwiza, usibye kurinda izuba, nta gushidikanya ko ihinduka iy'uruhu rwera.

Mu rwego rwo kwita ku ruhu, hari ibintu byinshi biryoshye cyane birimo vitamine C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, aside kojic, aside tranexamic, glutathione, aside ferulic, phenethylresorcinol (377), n'ibindi. Ariko, ikintu "glabridin" cyakuruye abafana benshi, bituma hakorwa ubushakashatsi bwimbitse kugira ngo hamenyekane ko ikunzwe cyane. Reka turebere hamwe ibisobanuro birambuye!

Dukoresheje iyi nkuru, tugamije gusuzuma ingingo z'ingenzi zikurikira:
(1) Inkomoko ya Glabridin ni iyihe? Ifitanye isano ite na "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Kuki "Glabridin" yubahwa nka "izahabu yera"?
(3) Ni izihe nyungu za "Glabridin"?
(4) Ni gute Glabridin igera ku ngaruka zayo zo kwera?
(5) Ese koko licorice irakomeye nkuko bivugwa?
(6) Ni ibihe bicuruzwa byo kwita ku ruhu birimo Glabridin?

No.1 Guhishura Inkomoko ya "Glabridin"

Glabridin, umwe mu bagize umuryango wa licorice flavonoid, ikomoka ku kimera "Glycyrrhiza glabra." Mu gihugu cyanjye, hari ubwoko umunani bw'ingenzi bwa licorice, hamwe n'ubwoko butatu buri muri "Pharmacopoeia," ari bwo Ural licorice, licorice bulge, na licorice glabra. Glycyrrhizin iboneka gusa muri Glycyrrhiza glabra, ikaba ari igice cy'ingenzi cya isoflavone muri iki kimera.

Uburyo bw'imiterere ya glycyrrhizin
Yavumbuwe bwa mbere n'isosiyete yo mu Buyapani yitwa MARUZEN, ikavanwa muri Glycyrrhiza glabra, glycyrrhizin ikoreshwa cyane nk'inyongera mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu byera mu Buyapani, muri Koreya no mu bindi bigo mpuzamahanga byo kwita ku ruhu. Ariko, ni ngombwa kumenya ko ikintu kiri mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu dukoresha gishobora kuba atari "glycyrrhizin" ahubwo ari "Glycyrrhiza extract." Nubwo "Glycyrrhizin" ari ikintu kimwe, "Glycyrrhiza extract" ishobora kuba irimo ibindi bintu bitarakurwaho burundu kandi bigasukurwa, bishobora kuba nk'uburyo bwo kwamamaza kugira ngo hagaragazwe imiterere "isanzwe" y'ibicuruzwa.

No.2 Kuki licorice yitwa "Gold Whitener"?

Glycyrrhizin ni ikintu kidasanzwe kandi kigoye gukurwamo. Glycyrrhiza glabra ntabwo byoroshye kuyibona ku bwinshi. Iyo ukoresheje uburyo bwo kuyikuramo, garama zitarenze 100 zishobora kuboneka muri toni 1 y'ibiti bishya bya licorice n'amababi. Ubu buke bwayo butuma igira agaciro, bigatuma iba imwe mu bikoresho by'ibanze bihenze cyane mu bicuruzwa byo kwita ku ruhu, bigereranywa na zahabu. Igiciro cya 90% by'ibikoresho by'ibanze by'iki kintu kizamuka kikagera kuri Yuan zirenga 200.000 ku kilo.
Natangajwe cyane, nuko njya ku rubuga rwa Aladdin kugira ngo nemeze neza amakuru arambuye. Licorice isanzwe (ifite ubuziranenge ≥99%) iratangwa ku giciro cya poromosiyo cya yuan 780/20mg, bingana na yuan 39.000/g.
Mu kanya gato, natangiye kubaha iyi mvange idasobanutse. Ingaruka zayo zo kwera zitagereranywa zatumye ihabwa izina rya "kwera zahabu" cyangwa "Golden Whitener".

No.3 Ni iyihe mikorere ya Glabridin?

Glabridin ifite imiterere myinshi y’ibinyabuzima. Ikora nk'ikintu cyiza, cyizewe, kandi kidahungabanya ibidukikije mu gukuraho umweru no gukuraho udukoko. Byongeye kandi, ifite ingaruka zo kurwanya bagiteri, kurwanya ububyimbirwe, kurwanya antioxidant, kurwanya gusaza, no kurwanya imirasire ya ultraviolet. Ingufu zayo zidasanzwe mu gukuraho umweru, gutanga urumuri, no gukuraho udukoko zishyigikiwe n'amakuru y'igerageza, agaragaza ko ingaruka za Glabridin zo gukuraho umweru zirenze iza vitamine C inshuro zirenga 230, hydroquinone inshuro 16, naho arbutin izwi cyane mu gukuraho umweru inshuro 1164.

No.4 Ni ubuhe buryo bwo kweza glabridin?

Iyo uruhu ruhuye n'imirasire ya ultraviolet, bigatera gukora radicals free, melanocytes zishishikarizwa gukora tyrosinase. Bitewe n'iyi enzyme, tyrosine mu ruhu ikora melanin, bigatuma uruhu rwijima kuko melanin ivanwa mu gice cy'imbere cy'umubiri ijya mu gice cya corneum.
Ihame ry'ibanze ry'ikintu icyo ari cyo cyose cyo kweza ni ukwivanga mu gikorwa cyo kwirema kwa melanin cyangwa kuyitwara. Uburyo bwo kweza bwa Glabridin bukubiyemo ahanini ibintu bitatu bikurikira:
(1) Kubuza imikorere ya tyrosinase
Glabridin igaragaza ingaruka zikomeye ku mikorere ya tyrosinase, bigatanga umusaruro ugaragara kandi w’ingenzi. Isuzuma rya mudasobwa rigaragaza ko glabridin ishobora gufatana neza n’igice cy’ingenzi cya tyrosinase binyuze mu migozi ya hydrogen, ikabuza byikora kwinjira kw’ibikoresho fatizo byo gukora melanin (tyrosine), bityo bikabangamira ikorwa rya melanin. Ubu buryo, buzwi nka "competitive inhibition", busa n’ikimenyetso cy’urukundo gikomeye.

(2) Kubuza ikorwa ry'ubwoko bwa ogisijeni (antioxydant)
Kugaragara ku mirasire ya ultraviolet bituma habaho ubwoko bwa ogisijeni ikora (radicals free), ishobora kwangiza uruhu rwa phospholipide, bigatera erythema no guhinduka kw'ibara. Bityo, ubwoko bwa ogisijeni ikora bizwiho kugira uruhare mu kongera ibara ry'uruhu, bishimangira akamaro ko kurinda izuba mu kwita ku ruhu. Ubushakashatsi bwakozwe bwagaragaje ko glabridin ifite ubushobozi bwo gukuraho radicals free radicals nk'ubwa superoxide dismutase (SOD), ikora nk'umuti urwanya antioxidant. Ibi bifasha kugabanya ibintu bigira uruhare mu kwiyongera k'imikorere ya tyrosinase.

(3) Kubuza ububyimbirwe
Nyuma yo kwangirika k'uruhu bitewe n'imirasire ya ultraviolet, kugaragara kwa erythema no guhindagurika kw'amabara biherekezwa no kubyimba, bikongera ikorwa rya melanin kandi bigakomeza uruziga rwangiza. Imiterere ya Glabridin irwanya ububyimbirwe ikora ahantu heza ho kubuza ikorwa rya melanin ku rugero runaka, ndetse inafasha gusana uruhu rwangiritse.

Ikinyabutabire cya Licorice glabridin0004

No. 5 Ese koko Glabridin ifite imbaraga nk'izo?

Glabridin yashimwe nk'ikintu cyiza kandi kitangiza ibidukikije mu gukaraba no gukuraho uduce duto tw'amabara, ikaba ifite uburyo bwo gukaraba neza kandi ikora neza cyane. Amakuru y'igerageza agaragaza ko ingaruka zayo zo gukaraba ziruta iz'"igihangange cy'umweru" arbutin inshuro zirenga igihumbi (nk'uko byagaragajwe mu makuru y'igerageza).
Abashakashatsi bakoze icyitegererezo cy’igerageza ry’inyamaswa bakoresheje zebrafish kugira ngo basuzume ingaruka za glabridin ku miterere ya melanin, bagaragaza igereranya rikomeye na aside kojic na bearberry.
Uretse igeragezwa ry’inyamaswa, ibyavuye mu buvuzi bigaragaza ingaruka nziza zo kwera kwa glabridin, aho ibisubizo bigaragara byagaragaye mu byumweru 4-8.
Nubwo akamaro k'iki kintu cyo kwisiga kigaragara, ikoreshwa ryacyo ntirikwirakwira cyane nk'ibindi bintu byo kwisiga. Mu bitekerezo byanjye, impamvu nyamukuru iri mu "kuba icya zahabu" mu nganda—birahenze! Nyamara, nyuma yo gukoresha ibikoresho bisanzwe byo kwita ku ruhu, hari icyerekezo gikomeje kwiyongera cy'abantu bashaka ibicuruzwa birimo iki kintu cyo kwisiga kidasanzwe.

Ni ibihe bicuruzwa byo kwita ku ruhu birimo Glabridin?

Icyitonderwa: Urutonde rukurikira ni urw'ibintu, ntabwo ari icyifuzo!
Glabridin ni ikintu gikomeye mu kwita ku ruhu kizwiho kugira imiterere yacyo yo koroshya uruhu. Iboneka mu bikoresho bitandukanye byo kwita ku ruhu, harimo serum, essences, lotions, na masks. Ariko, ni ngombwa kumenya ko Glabridin iboneka mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu ishobora gutandukana, kandi ni byiza gusuzuma witonze urutonde rw'ibintu bigize ibikoresho runaka kugira ngo umenye ko birimo.
(1) Amavuta yo kwisiga ya Aleble Licorice Queen
Urutonde rw'ibikubiye mu bicuruzwa rugaragaza cyane "Glycyrrhiza glabra" nk'ikintu cya kabiri (gikurikira amazi), hamwe na glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, n'ibindi bintu bitera ububobere.
(2) Gusana Amavuta y'Imbuto z'Indabyo zo mu bwoko bwa Makeup y'Abana
Ibintu by'ingenzi birimo Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, hydrolyzed algae extract, arbutin, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, n'ibindi.
(3) Kokoskin Snow Clock Essence Body Serum
Irimo 5% nicotinamide, 377, na glabridin nk'ibiyigize by'ingenzi.
(4) Gupfuka mu maso bya Licorice (Ibirango bitandukanye)
Iki cyiciro cy'ibicuruzwa kiratandukanye, bimwe birimo ingano ntoya kandi bikagurishwa nk'ibimera "glabragan".
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

Ikinyabutabire cya Licorice glabridin0009

Urubozo rw'ubugingo rwa No.7

(1) Ese koko Glabridin iboneka mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu ikomoka kuri licorice?
Ikibazo cyo kumenya niba Glabridin mu bicuruzwa byita ku ruhu ivanwa muri licorice koko ni ikintu cyemewe. Imiterere ya chimique ya licorice extract, cyane cyane glabridin, iratandukanye, kandi inzira yo kuyikuramo ishobora kuba ihenze. Ibi bitera kwibaza niba byaba ari byiza kurushaho gutekereza ku gukora imvange y'ibinyabutabire nk'ubundi buryo bwo kubona glabridin. Nubwo bimwe mu bintu, nka artemisinin, bishobora kuboneka binyuze mu gukora imvange yose, birashoboka mu buryo bw'imitekerereze gukora glabridin. Ariko, ingaruka z'ikiguzi cyo gukora imvange y'ibinyabutabire ugereranije no kuyikuramo zigomba kwitabwaho. Byongeye kandi, hashobora kubaho impungenge ku ikoreshwa rya "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" ku rutonde rw'ibicuruzwa byita ku ruhu kugira ngo habeho gukurura ibicuruzwa karemano. Ni ngombwa gushakisha inkomoko n'uburyo bwo gukora ibintu byita ku ruhu kugira ngo hamenyekane ko bisobanutse kandi ari ukuri.

(2) Ese nshobora kwisiga licorice ifite ubuziranenge bwinshi ku maso yanjye kugira ngo mbone ibara ry'umweru nk'urubura?
Igisubizo ni oya rwose! Nubwo ingaruka zo kwera kwa glabridin ari nziza, imiterere yayo igabanya ikoreshwa ryayo mu buryo butaziguye. Glycyrrhizin irashongesha cyane mu mazi, kandi ubushobozi bwayo bwo kwinjira mu ruhu ni buke. Kuyishyira mu bikoresho byo kwita ku ruhu bisaba uburyo bukomeye bwo kuyitunganya no kuyitegura. Iyo hatabayeho uburyo bukwiye bwo kuyitunganya, byaba bigoye kugera ku ngaruka wifuza. Ariko, ubushakashatsi bwa siyansi bwatumye habaho iterambere ry’ibinyabutabire byo mu bwoko bwa liposome, byongera uburyo glabridin inyuzwamo n’ikoreshwa ryayo mu ruhu.

ingero:
[1] Pigmentation: dyschromia [M]. Thierry Passeron na Jean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen n'abandi / Spectrochimica Acta Igice cya A: Spectroscopy ya Molecular na Biomolecular 168 (2016) 111–117